The effects of antioxidants are one of the most studied fields in dermatology. However, different antioxidants have a slightly different effect and even the same vitamin might have varied efficacy depending on its particular form, pH of the formula and accompanying ingredients.
So how did we come up with the final formula? First, we explored various antioxidants and what exactly do they do:
Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate is one of the most stable yet effective forms of vitamin C. It penetrates the skin through the hair follicles and therefore is able to reach the deeper layers of the skin. It is known to fight the UV damage, both preventatively and after the sun exposure. Studies have also shown that at 5% SAP is also effective in acne treatment and deemed safe to treat the acne scars in conjunction with the glycolic and acid peels. It evens out the skin tone as a naturally brightening ingredient.
Its effectiveness is increased with the addition of Vitamin E, and by adding ferulic acid the resulting mix can double the
CoQ10 is a special antioxidant that is present in
Now that we have finalized our antioxidant short-list, the next step was to choose the right penetration enhancer. The active ingredients that stay on top of the dead skin cells layer are not going to be very helpful. Propylene glycol is a versatile ingredient that helps not only to offer a deeper delivery of the active ingredients (and is extensively used in the medical field for
Panthenol is another moisturizing, soothing and healing ingredient that is converted in tissues to D-pantothenic acid (vitamin B5), a component of coenzyme A in the body. Hyaluronic acid paired with glycerin are finalizing the list of humectants used in the formula. The regular hyaluronic acid is too large to penetrate the skin and stays in the upper levels, complemeting the glycerin that isn’t optimal to be used at high percentages as it might create a tacky feel.
Last but not least of the serum’s key ingredients is Glucosamine, a nourishing essential. Because of its stimulation of hyaluronic acid synthesis, glucosamine has been shown to accelerate wound healing, improve skin hydration, and decrease wrinkles.
Of course, there is so much more we would love to add to create the perfect serum. Wouldn’t it be great to simplify the routine and have just one serum to apply? Well, there needs to be enough water left to mix all of these ingredients! There also needs to be a room for the non-oily emollients and natural preservatives. We avoided adding fragrances to the serum, as there are many people who are sensitive to them, even when derived from essential oils. However, natural ingredients provide the serum with its own light, flower-resembling smell.