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The science behind the ‘After Dark’ Overnight Facial Oil

‘After Dark’ Facial Oil

Our fresh blend of oils is high in linoleic and linolenic essential fatty acids is infused with antioxidants (vitamins C & E and beta-carotene) and cholesterol to deliver critical nutrients an aging skin lacks. Here we wanted to talk about our approach to selecting the ingredients that we did.

Regular vegetable oils composition is 80% triglycerides and only 1% of fatty acids. Human’s sebum is much more complex, and therefore requires a more sophisticated facial oil to resemble a healthy sebum:

Reference: Human sebum consists of squalene, esters of glycerol, wax and cholesterol, as well as free cholesterol and fatty acids. Triglycerides and fatty acids, taken together, account for the predominant proportion (57.5%), followed by wax esters (26%) and squalene (12%). The least abundant lipid in sebum is cholesterol, which with its esters, accounts for the 4.5% of total lipids.

We wanted to create a facial oil that will be rich on oil-soluble components that aging skin needs. The research supports that as we age, our skin produces less cholesterol and lacks linoleic acid. The latter is one of the few “essential” acids that our body cannot produce on its own but needs as a building block in producing almost 200 other fatty acids that are required to support our skin. The studies also supported that replenishing the skin with either cholesterol or linoleic & linolenic acid led to a better moisturized and younder looking skin.

The rest of the components represented the ingredients in the proportions that resemble human’s sebum: 12% squalane (turns into squalene), coconut alkanes and jojoba esters that also support quick oil absorption and non-greasy feel, a combination of vegetable oils to replenish triglyceride components and other rare fatty acids, soy lecithin rich in phospholipids and phytosterol.

Since high linoleic and polyunsaturated oils oxidize very quickly, the active sunlight might speed up the process. Therefore we had to plan for an overnight treatment, additional antioxidants, short shelf life and UV protection. We created the bottle that doesn’t let the sun to impact the shelf life of the oil and our supply chain and manufacturing are optimized to deliver the products to you as quickly and fresh as possible.

Yet theory is nothing without field testing. Several iterations of the formula were distributed among our early reviewers to collect feedback. The final formula selected ended up being a quickl absorbing oil that nourishes and moisturizes the skin overnight, and works best for dry to normal and combination skin types.

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